Whether we were passengers in a
rickety tuk-tuk in Colombo, the bustling, leafy capital, or riding in
an air-conditioned car across the countryside, armed men in olive-green
uniforms would routinely order us to stop. They would check for
explosives or for any sign that the violence that had plagued the
country over nearly three decades might again threaten the peace won at
such an appalling cost.
Those
scenes seemed relegated to the past -- until this week when terrorists
killed hundreds of people, attacking churches and major hotels on Easter
Sunday. At last count, more than 320 people are confirmed dead and
hundreds more injured.
A decade ago, it made sense to me that
travel brochures routinely referred to the country as a "teardrop shaped
island." Tears and Sri Lanka seemed to belong in the same sentence. I
thought that had changed.
Up to 100,000
people died in a horrific civil war that ended in 2009. All wars are
awful, but there was something particularly macabre about Sri Lanka's --
with its wave of suicide bombings by the fanatical Tamil Tigers; with
its gruesome final battle -- a civilian massacre
by the government; with the still-visible scars in Jaffna, the capital
of the Northern Province, and the rest of the battered war zones, where
the radical members of the Tamil minority launched their brutal bid for
independence, drawing a crushing response from the state.
I returned over the years, witnessing a country emerge from tragedy. On
my most recent trip, 16 months ago, I stayed at Colombo's lively
Cinnamon Grand Hotel, one of the targets of the Easter Sunday attacks. I
had breakfast every day -- fish curry and chilled coconut juice -- in
the same restaurant where a suicide bomber detonated his explosives. I
watched the lavish weddings in the cavernous rear lobby, soaking up
performances from traditional Sinhalese musicians and trying to
understand the symbolism of the rituals.
For the rest of the world, peace meant
that the wonders of the small island in the crosscurrents of history
were open and inviting. Tourists started arriving by the millions.
But all was not well on the island known before independence as Ceylon,
and before that as Serendib, the inspiration for the word
"serendipity."
After the war, Sri Lanka moved haltingly along the path of transitional justice, drawing international support but also criticism. Separately, domestic political battles reached dangerous levels. Last year, a constitutional clash between rival politicians left the country with competing prime ministers amid warnings that the country risked plunging back into a bloodbath. The police canceled vacations just in case.
The country's giant neighbors, China and India, have vied for influence. Former President Mahinda Rajapaksa, close to China and accused of massive corruption, signed a gargantuan deal with Beijing for construction of a new port. Rajapaksa has denied the accusations. The cost was so high that Beijing ended up taking possession of the strategic facility, infuriating Sri Lankans.
China's presence is inescapable. I once
visited what would become another target of Sunday's terrorists, the
Shangri-La Hotel, a massive, luxurious structure facing the seashore,
where Chinese workers are building yet another mammoth controversial project, this one building up in the sea. (China generally sends its own laborers to work on its foreign infrastructure projects.)
The economy has been performing well
since peace returned. Gross domestic product, the poverty rate and life
expectancy have all been moving in the right direction. And yet not
long ago I noted that "the march toward a stable, peaceful and
prosperous future is threatened" by the government's hesitancy in
dealing with the past and its reluctance to tackle emerging tensions.
Those new tensions include friction between Buddhists and Muslims, which burst to the surface during one of my visits.
According to the 2012 census, some 75% of Sri Lankans are ethnic Sinhalese,
most of them Buddhists. Ethnic Tamils, the largest minority, make up
little more than 11%. Most of the them practice Hinduism. Muslims make
up just under 10% of the population, and Christians, most of them
Catholic, are 7.6 % of the population.
Clearly,
it's a complicated country, shaped by the sweep of empires and
merchants who brought their religions with them. For the most part, the
different groups have and continue to live in peace, but the exceptions
have proven catastrophic enough to warrant alarm.
One of the greatest risks now is that in
its fully justified effort to uproot the organization that carried out
Sunday's attacks, the authorities may further spread the seeds of
extremism, giving terrorists precisely what they want. Fanatics intent
on sparking unrest, on boosting recruitment and weakening the state like
nothing more than to see the state make life worse for their potential
supporters.
Decisive action is required, but let's hope cool thinking prevails. Sri Lanka's peace is fragile.
Authorities were wise to block much of social media after the attacks. Fueled by rumors
in Facebook posts, mobs of nationalist Buddhist extremists (you read
that correctly) have clashed against Muslim groups. The government,
dominated by Sinhalese Buddhists, has been slow to act. After one such
attack, in 2017, the Sri Lankan human rights lawyer Gehan Gunatilleke
told me that the government's inadequate response is "legitimizing
ultra-conservative" Muslim groups, noting that some of the Muslim groups
are trying to outdo each on their radicalism to please their Middle
Eastern backers.
Over
the years I've met heroic Sri Lankans who fought to bring peace to
their country. I've met Sinhalese and Tamils working for reconciliation.
And I've heard worried Sri Lankans concerned about politicians
squandering the country's future. The checkpoints have been lifted.
Peace has made inroads, but the shadow of the long war has not
completely faded. Sri Lankans, heartbroken after the bombings,
understand better than anyone how much is at stake.
Update :- China often sends its own laborers to work on Chinese infrastructure projects in other countries.
0 comments:
Post a Comment